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The infamous Lock-n-Lock is one of the most revered geocache containers,
second only to the venerable ammo box. Still, these small but amazing little containers do a great job
and provided that they aren't subjected to extreme stress they will provide a secure, watertight home
for your geocache goodies for years without any maintenance.
However, most of the Lock-n-Lock containers I encounter are either unpainted, or the paint has chipped
off due to either the use of low quality paint, inadequate surface preparation, or both. As outlined
below, a little time and a few dollars will turn an ordinary Lock-n-Lock container into a high-quality
geocache that will stand the test of time and the elements.
 Step 1:
Choose a good container. Several companies manufacture similar containers,
get what is available to you in your area. I have had great success with a brand called "4-side-locked"
(I haven't been able to find the manufacturer's website) which I picked up on sale at a local supermarket
for about $2.00 (Canadian) for the 300ml version. Remove stickers from the outside (removing any residue
with a non-petrolium based cleaner) and any packaging.
Some people recommend running the containers through the dishwasher first to remove
any residual compounds from the manufacturing process. This step is purely optional; I have had great
success without performing this step. If you do decide to run your containers through the dishwasher,
I suggest removing the silicone band from inside first, if possible. Dishwasher detergents can be pretty nasty and
since we don't want this waterproofing element to break down, it's best to avoid doing anything that may
inadvertently shorten it's lifespan.
 Step 2:
Using a medium-fine grit sandpaper (in the 600 grit range), gently scuff the entire
outside surface of the container, paying particular attention to the corners and latches, and any areas
that will experience increased wear. The goal here is to turn that factory glossy surface into a rough paint-gripping
one. There's no need to overly rough the surface up, you just need to introduce some very slight scratches so that
the paint has something to hold on to.
 Step 3:
Clean the container. I usually use 70% isopropyl alcohol, but warm soapy water works
really well too. If you choose to use isopropyl alcohol, be sure to wear eye protection and gloves, work in a
well-ventilated area and don't work anywhere near a spark or open flame. After giving the container a good cleaning,
set them aside in a warm and well-ventilated area (eg, your garage) to dry overnight.
 Step 4:
Buy some good paint. Only buy paint that is designed to stick to plastics. I suggest the Krylon
Fusion "camouflage" series; it's the best paint i've ever used for this job. It costs a little bit more than
the cheap stuff, but trust me - it's totally worth it!
 Step 5:
Time to paint! First and foremost, you must be absolutely sure that your containers are
completely bone-dry. If possible, let then sit overnight in a warm area before beginning this step. Be careful when handling
them and be sure you don't get any fingerprints on the surface - this can cause the paint to adhere weakly and possibly flake
off later. Oh, and put on some old clothes - you will probably get some paint on yourself unless you're very experienced with
painting. Wear gloves too if you're concerned about getting paint on your skin.
Also, I don't recommend painting at night since it's really hard to see what you're doing. Be sure to
follow the directions on your paint, most manufacturers don't recommend painting when the temperature is below 10°C or
above 40°C. It's also not a good idea to paint when it's windy or raining, for obvious reasons. And don't paint near
anything valuable (eg, vehicles or buildings)...
Working outdoors, spread some newspaper or cardboard down when you want to do your painting,
making sure that you can freely move 360 degrees around your work. Paint in even strips, holding the can on a slight
downward angle about 15 cm from your target, working from one side across the container. Then move 90 degrees and touch
up any missed spots, continuing until you have placed a light coating over the entire surface. Pay particular attention
to corners!
Let the containers dry for at least an hour, and then apply a second coat. I like to hold the container
up to the light to look for light or underpainted areas. After letting the second coat dry for at least an hour, move your
finished containers into a dry well-ventilated area such as your garage and let them sit for 24 hours to completely dry.
So there you go. It's a little bit of extra work but your cache will have that personalized touch that
geocachers will remember you for. If you have the time and the creative urge, feel free to embelish the container's paint job
with camouflage patterns or text.
Cache on!
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