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At midnight on May 1st, 2000, following an announcement by president Bill Clinton,
Selective Availability - an intentional error that degraded the accuracy of the GPS transmissions -
was disabled. Now any low-cost hand-held civillian GPS receiver could achieve navigational accuracy of
typically 3 meters or better. With cheap and accurate GPS receivers now available to everyone,
the sport of Geocaching was about to be born.
But what exactly is Geocaching? In short, it's a high-tech treasure hunt in which members use a GPS receiver to
find caches (geocaches) which are typically a hidden container, placed by Geocachers for other Geocachers to find.
These caches are hidden
all over the world, some even in plain sight. Geocaching can take you to places you may have lived near your
whole life but never knew about, they can act as a tour of a place you are visiting (if you like scenic natural
environments) or can just be a great way to pass the time with the kids on a lazy Saturday afternoon. Geocaching
is kid-friendly, and many caches contain trade items for kids.
Geocaching is for people of all ages with a good sense of sportsmanship and a sense of adventure. Geocachers are members
of websites which allow cachers to search for nearby caches, which are then entered into a typical hand-held GPS receiver.
Many modern receivers have specific geocaching features built in, but these are for convenience and are not necessary
for geocaching; in fact, any GPS receiver will work just fine. There are a number of geocaching websites, you
can see a list of them here.
Getting Started
In order to get started in Geocaching, we suggest that you read through the excellent introduction hosted by geocaching.com.
But if you prefer, here is a brief summary - which is neither comprehensive or complete - but may well be enough to get you started.
First, and above all else, you will need a GPS receiver. Most any unit will do, but at the very minimum it is recommended to
buy a modern unit, don't get a second-hand unit if possible. Most new receivers also support WAAS, which if you live
in North America, means you can get far superior accuracy - which is always a good thing. If you have lots of money,
then by all means, get yourself a top of the line GPS receiver with all the bells and whistles. However, most any
GPS receiver will work just fine. I do, however, highly recommend purchasing a unit that sports the Sirf-III chipset,
which is far more sensitive than other chipsets currently on the market. Why? Well, Geocaches are often placed in
wooded areas or locations where a clear view of the sky isn't always attainable. This chipset is quite sensitive, and
is often able to maintain a lock in unfavorable conditions where other GPS receivers cannot. Garmin offers some units
that use this chipset, often designated as "high-sensitivity". I personally use the Garmin eTrex-H, it is an
excellent and low-cost unit ($99 USD) and I have had very few issues with it to date. It is, however, limited in it's
Geocaching functionality, limited to 500 waypoints with 8 character names, and lacking in most of the Geocaching-specific
features that more advanced units offer. Regardless of the unit you choose, be sure to purchase a data sync cable.
The more expensive models come with one, you can also purchase them seperately from either the manufacturer or a
third party. I built my own for about $5 using connectors from pfranc,
but that option may not be for everyone. Oh, and make sure you set your GPS's datum to WGS84, this is what all Geocachers
use and if you have it set wrong, your coordinates may take you somewhere else.
The next thing you will need to do is to sign up to one of the geocaching websites,
this is free. Once you have done that, read as much as you can to learn as much as possible about Geocaching. Most - if not
all of these sites - offer a significant volume of material on Geocaching, rules, etiquette, guides, forums, etc. Then, do
some searches and find some caches in your area. It's best to start with an easy cache, something nearby with a
a low difficulty rating and preferably a traditional cache. Start small. Take your GPS, either enter the coordinates
manually or download them to your unit with the data cable. Then go find that cache!
Your First Cache
Depending on the difficulty of the cache you have chosen, your first find may prove to be quite the ordeal. One of
the biggest mistakes that Geocaching newbies make is to trust their GPS to take them to the exact cache location. Remember
that your GPS will only take you within a few meters of the cache, you must then start looking around and try and find
the actual hide. Look carefully for anything that doesn't look natural: a pile of rocks, a pile of sticks or bark. I
suggest using your GPS to get near the cache, and then start looking around. You'll be amazed how many caches you
can find just by standing in one spot and looking around for a minute. Before you embark on your cache hunt, take
note of the cache size, this goes a long way towards helping you determine possible hiding places for the cache.
A "large" cache probably won't be hanging from a tree branch, and a micro cache probably won't be laying
on the ground. That's not to say they won't be - that's the beauty of Geocaching, many cachers are incredibly
creative with their hides and do unexpected things. Try to think like the
person who placed the cache in the first place. This mindset can go a long way towards helping you find that
elusive hide.
When you find the cache, be careful that no "muggles" are watching when retrieving or replacing it. Sign
the log book with your name, the date and time, and any comments you have. If you take anything from the cache,
write it in the log. Ditto if you place anything into the cache. If you take something, leave something of equal or
greater value. If there are any travel bugs or geocoins in the
cache, you can either take them to move along to another cache - don't keep them! - or simply record your
discovery. If you take a travel bug or geocoin from a cache, or place one into a cache, write it in the log. You
will also need to log into the geocaching website that listed the trackable item and record that you picked up
or dropped off the trackable item. Don't forget to record your visit on your geocaching website. If you look and
look and just can't find the cache, it is common courtesy to log a "DNF" - did not find - for the cache.
While it's not uncommon that even the best of us can't find a cache from time to time, it can help cache owners
determine if there is a problem with the cache; for example, if many people list did not find in a row,
the cache owner may pay the cache a visit to check if it has been muggled. The important thing is that you
record your visit, whether or not you found the cache, and log anything that you took from or placed into the
cache, and whether or not you retrieved a trackable item or placed one into the cache. For more info on logging
travel bugs, see this link
When placing items in a cache, it is important to use common sense. Don't leave food in caches; animals have
a keen sense of smell and can easily destroy or carry away a cache that smells good. Also, caches should be kid
friendly and safe. Don't leave any dangerous or illegal items in a cache. And don't leave items in a cache that absorb
or can be damaged by water; for example: paper, business cards, stuffed animals or clothing. They are
soon ruined and leave the cache smelling funky. Trust me, I've seen and smelt my fair share of these. Finally, leave
something that will benefit future cachers. Don't leave useless items in caches: rocks, toothpicks, napkins,
toilet paper, paper clips, rubber bands, soda straws, etc. If you don't want them, why would anyone else? It's better
to leave nothing at all than to leave something completely useless that will clutter up a cache.
Geocache Sizes
Generally, there are typically four sizes of geocache containers:
- Regular Caches - The most common type of cache is what is known as a
"regular" cache, which is typically 1.5L or larger container of some type, such as a lock-n-lock box,
an old peanut butter or coffee jar or a more extravagant container, such as a
military Ammunition Box - which is an excellent choice due to the fact that they are durable (usually made of metal), are water-tight, and are
already painted in a nice matte green which helps them blend into the surrounding environment.
Regular caches typically contain trade items - toys, trinkets, foreign coins, pins, magnets, gemstones, etc and are often
host to trackable items such as Travel Bugs or Geocoins in addition to the usual logbook and pencil. Regular caches
are sometimes camouflaged by painting or wrapping in Camo duct tape (usually available at your local sporting goods
store) to decrease the risk being discovered by muggles, and/or detracting from the natural aesthetics of the environment.
- Micro & Nano Caches - The second most popular seem to be what are known as "micro caches" or "micros". These
containers are typically a small pill container, film container or something of equal or smaller size. Micro caches
are a popular choice for caches hidden in open public areas as they are usually extremely easy to conceal. They are
commonly used as waypoints in Multi Caches as they require very little information (the next waypoint
coordinates) to be stored. Many micro caches contain just a miniature log book and often are too small to contain
a pencil, although it is not uncommon for them to contain a cut-down pencil. Micros are typically used for more
challenging hides and are often sought out by experienced geocachers.
A variation on a micro cache is the "nano cache" which isn't an official cache size but growing in popularity
with experienced geocachers looking for more challenging and novel hides. Nano caches - or "nanos" - are
simply very small micro caches - some as small as a .22 caliber cartridge case - which are most commonly used to store
waypoints for a Multi Cache due their compact form factor. In some cases, however, a Nano cache is in fact the final cache itself, containing a
nearly microscopic cache log. Another common choice for a Nano cache container is a recycled magnetic LED light,
the sort that are often available at novelty shops - with their electronics removed and painted black. This type
of Nano is usually referred to as a "blinky", and are particularly devious in that they are extraordinarily
small, and as they have an integral magnet they often make for very difficult and/or ingenious hides.
- Small Caches - Small caches are also popular, filling the segment between micro and regular caches. A common choice for a
small cache is a recycled plastic jar with a screw-top lid, like the type used to store instant coffee or peanut
butter. Other containers, such as larger plastic pill jars or a small lock-n-lock containers also qualify
as a small cache. Due to their size, this cache type often only contains a log book and pencil, however, some will
also permit small trade items. Due to the choice of container, many caches in this size need special waterproofing
consideration. More than once I have come across a small cache with a soaked log book.
- Large Caches - Large caches are less common but they do exist. For example, a 20L plastic tub would qualify as a "large"
cache. The biggest problem with caches of this size is, well, their size.. unless strategically placed, they are
typically more vulnerable to muggles. Nonetheless, some excellent large caches exist.
Geocache Types
This is a list of the most popular types of caches:
- Traditional - Traditional caches are a cache in the traditional sense, a single hidden container. Most
caches fall into this category.
- Multi-Caches - Multi caches have one or more waypoints which lead the cacher to the final
cache. A waypoint is commonly a micro cache containing a slip of paper with the next waypoint's coordinates
written on it. Sometimes, creative cachers will come up with alternatives, such as engraving coordinates on a disk
and attaching it to a structure like a signpost. Multi caches provide geocachers an outlet for creativity in
designing their caches.
- Mystery Caches - Mystery caches require the cacher to solve a puzzle or mystery in order to find the
cache. Usually the listed coordinates are not for the cache itself, but rather, for a nearby location such as a
parking area, signpost or a spot where information required to "solve" the mystery can be found. It is important
to pay close attention to the cache description for this cache type, as it will provide clues or instructions on
solving the mystery.
- Earthcaches - These caches provide information about a particular feature of the earth; no physical
container is used with this cache type. For more information, visit the official Earth Cache website
which explains Earth Caches in greater detail, and hosts the submission forms for this type of cache.
There are a number of other cache types that you may see from time to time - including Virtual, Letterbox Hybrid and
Event Caches - but these types can be explored after you have discovered your first few caches.
Geocaching Links
There's so many Geocaching websites that cataloging them all would almost be a futile effort. Or would it? Well,
I gave it a shot anyhow, so here's my collection of
Geocaching Links, all nicely sorted on a separate page.
Geocaching Glossary
Common terms and acronyms you may encounter
1TF - See FTF
2TF - See STF
3TF - See TTF
ATCF - As the crow flies
BYOP - Bring your own pen
Bison Tube - A small metal tube with a screw top, waterproofed with a rubber o-ring. The name originated from Bison Designs, the company who originally manufactured them. Inexpensive clones of Bison tubes are widely available and often sold as "ID holders". These tubes make excellent micro caches.
CITO - Cache in, trash out. Cachers are encouraged to practice CITO while Geocaching.
DNF - Did not find
FFTF - First FTF.
FTF - First to find. The coveted designation for the first geocacher to find a newly placed cache. Many caches will contain a "FTF Prize", a special reward for the first geocacher to find the cache.
GPX - A GPX file contains additional information about caches, including the description, hint and the most recent logs. Generating GPX files is a premium member feature of Geocaching.com
GZ - See: Ground Zero
Geocrap - Useless, boring or otherwise uninteresting items left behind in caches
Ground Zero - The point at where a cache is supposed to be located, according to your GPS.
LPC - Lamp-post cache, usually hidden under a lamp post skirt
Lock-n-Lock - A popular choice for small and regular caches; an inexpensive waterproof plastic storage container which has four clasps - one on each side - providing a secure closure.
MKH - Magnetic key holder; a common choice for micro caches.
Muggle - A non-geocacher, often a passerby.
Muggled - When a cache is discovered by a muggle and removed.
Paperless Caching - An environmentally friendly option for Geocaching, where cache listings are downloaded to the GPS and/or a PDA or laptop so that no paper is wasted storing Geocaching information.
Plundered - A cache that has been discovered by Muggles or corrupt Geocachers and removed or the contents strewn about, vandalized or stolen.
Power Trail - A series of geocaches within close proximity to one another
SBA - Should be archived. A log note indicating that the cache should be placed into archived status.
SL - Signed log.
STF - Second to find. Almost as prestigious as a FTF. Also called a 2TF.
TAG - Trackable Adventure Tag. A geocoin that is nearly identical to a Travel Bug, currently made by LandSharkz
TB - See: Travel Bug
TFTC - Thanks for the cache. See also TFTH
TFTF - Thanks for the find. Definition can be ambiguous so usage not recommended.
TFTFTF - Thanks for the FTF (ok, ok, I invented that one)
TFTH - Thanks for the hide. See also TFTC
TNLN - Took nothing, left nothing.
TNLNSL - Took nothing, left nothing, signed log book. See also: TNLN, TNSL
TNSL - Took nothing, signed log book. See also: TNLN, TNLNSL
TTF - Third to find, also called a 3TF.
Travel Bug - A dog tag that is usually attached to a 'hitchhiker'. Travel bugs aren't trade items, if you pick one up, you must place it in another cache. Travel bugs are given a mission by their owners and contain a code to track their movements on Geocaching.com; see: How to log a travel bug
Travel Bug Hotel - A cache that is intended as a swap point for trackable items.
WPID - Waypoint ID. See Waypoint
Waypoint - A waypoint represents a GPS coordinate. Multi-caches will have one or more waypoints which will ultimately point you to the final cache. A cache ID is sometimes referred to as a waypoint.
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